Sleeping Cat Doily Applique

Crochet Pattern · Easy to Intermediate

Sleeping Cat Doily Applique

A Complete Step-by-Step Crochet Guide for Beginners

Learn exactly how to crochet this sweet curled-up kitten resting on a lace doily with a four-leaf clover flower — from your very first magic ring to the final stitch. This guide walks through every tool, every material, and every round, so even a first-time amigurumi crocheter can follow along.

Skill level: Easy–Intermediate Hook: 2.5–3.0 mm Yarn: DK / Light Worsted cotton Finished size: ~5–6 in doily
Introduction

A Sweet Project for Cat Lovers and Yarn Lovers Alike

There's something irresistible about a crocheted animal that is curled up, eyes closed, completely at peace — and that's exactly the charm of the Sleeping Cat Doily Applique. This design combines two beloved crochet traditions in one project: the delicate, lacy texture of a classic doily, and the soft, three-dimensional sculpting of amigurumi.

The result is a little tabby cat, embroidered with whisper-soft whiskers and a contented smile, resting on a scalloped lilac doily and hugging a plump four-leaf clover. It works beautifully as a coaster, a wall hanging, a gift tag for a fellow cat person, or simply a small piece of fiber art to display on a shelf.

Below you'll find everything you need: a full breakdown of the tools and materials required to start crocheting from zero, the abbreviations used in the pattern, and a complete round-by-round walkthrough of every component — the doily, the head, the body, the ears, the legs, the tail, the flower, and the final assembly.

Why this pattern works so well for practice Almost every piece is built from a magic ring, worked in simple increase/decrease rounds. Once you're comfortable with the doily base, you already have the muscle memory for the head, body, and legs — they all reuse the same core technique at different sizes.
Getting started, part one

Tools You Need to Start Crocheting

Before buying yarn, it helps to know exactly what's sitting in a crocheter's toolkit and why. Here is every tool used in this pattern, explained for someone picking up a hook for the first time.

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Crochet hook, 2.5–3.0 mm The hook size determines how tight or loose your stitches sit. A smaller hook (2.5 mm) gives a denser, sturdier fabric — ideal for amigurumi parts like the head and body, where you don't want stuffing to peek through. A slightly larger hook (3.0 mm) can be used for the lacier doily sections where some drape is welcome.
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Yarn needle (tapestry needle) A blunt, large-eyed needle used to sew pieces together (head to body, ears to head, flower to body) and to weave in loose yarn tails so they're invisible in the finished piece.
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Scissors For trimming yarn cleanly after fastening off each piece. A small, sharp pair gives the most control for tight spaces like ear corners.
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Stitch markers (optional but recommended) Small clips or rings that mark the beginning of a round. Crochet rounds aren't joined the way rows are, so it's easy to lose track of where a round starts — a marker prevents that.
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Black embroidery thread (and a regular sewing/embroidery needle) Used after the head is assembled to stitch on the cat's closed eyes and whiskers with simple straight stitches.
Getting started, part two

Materials for the Sleeping Cat Doily

This pattern uses cotton yarn in DK (Double Knit) or Light Worsted weight. Cotton is chosen deliberately here: it holds its shape well for stuffed amigurumi pieces and gives the doily's lace mesh and scalloped edge crisp, defined stitches — something a fluffier acrylic or wool yarn won't do as cleanly.

White / CreamDoily lace mesh, cat's head and body base
Light PurpleScalloped doily edge and the clover flower
PinkInner ears and nose embroidery
Light GrayTabby stripes on the head, body, and tail
Black (embroidery thread)Eyes, mouth, and whisker embroidery
Fiberfill stuffingFills the head, body, and legs for a soft 3D shape

A small amount of each color goes a long way — this is a great project for using up leftover scraps from your stash. If you'd like to make a calico colorway, simply swap in cream, orange/caramel, black, and green where the pattern calls for white, gray, and purple.

Before you begin

Stitch Abbreviations (US Terms)

This pattern is written in US crochet terms. Keep this key handy while you work:

AbbreviationMeaning
MRMagic Ring — an adjustable loop used to start working in the round
chChain
scSingle Crochet
hdcHalf Double Crochet
dcDouble Crochet
trTreble Crochet
sl stSlip Stitch
incIncrease — 2 stitches worked into the same stitch
decDecrease — invisible decrease, combining 2 stitches into 1
( )Repeat the instructions inside the parentheses
[ ]Total stitch count at the end of the round
Step 1

Crochet the Doily Base

The doily is worked in the round from the center outward, starting tight and structured, then opening into an airy lace mesh before finishing with a scalloped purple border.

a

Rounds 1–3: The solid base

  • Round 1MR, 12 dc, sl st in top of first dc. [12]
  • Round 2Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in each st around, sl st. [24]
  • Round 3Ch 3, (dc, inc) around, sl st. [36]
b

Lace mesh

Ch 5, skip 1 st, sl st in next st. Repeat around.

c

Scalloped edge

In each space: (7 dc, sl st in next space). Repeat around.

Why it looks so delicate The jump from a solid round 3 straight into chain-5 lace loops is what creates the airy, web-like mesh you see between the cat and the scalloped edge — it's a simple repeat, but the open spacing does all the visual work.
Step 2

Crochet the Cat's Head

The head is a classic amigurumi sphere: increase steadily to round 7, work even through the "equator," then decrease back down to close it off.

1

Head, Rounds 1–17

  • R1MR, 6 sc. [6]
  • R2inc x6. [12]
  • R3(sc, inc) x6. [18]
  • R4(2 sc, inc) x6. [24]
  • R5(3 sc, inc) x6. [30]
  • R6(4 sc, inc) x6. [36]
  • R7–12sc around. [36]
  • R13(4 sc, dec) x6. [30]
  • R14(3 sc, dec) x6. [24]
  • R15(2 sc, dec) x6. [18]
  • R16(sc, dec) x6. [12]
  • R17dec x6. Fasten off, stuff before closing. [6]
2

Ears (make 2)

  • Ch 4Foundation chain
  • Row 1sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc, sc. [3]
  • Row 2ch 1, turn, (sc, inc, sc). [4]
  • Row 3ch 1, turn, sc, inc, 2 sc. [5] Fasten off.

Sew a small pink inner-ear triangle and the white outer-ear triangle together before attaching to the head.

3

Embroidery (face details)

  • Eyes: black embroidery, straight stitches (closed, sleepy lashes)
  • Nose: pink
  • Mouth & whiskers: black
Step 3

Crochet the Cat's Body, Paws, Legs & Tail

The body is worked as an oval rather than a sphere, giving the curled, sleeping posture its characteristic elongated shape.

1

Body, Rounds 1–15

  • Startch 10.
  • R1sc in 2nd ch from hook and across, 8 sc.
  • R23 sc, 3 sc in last st, continue on other side, 5 sc, inc. [16]
  • R3inc, 5 sc, inc x3, 5 sc, inc x2. [22]
  • R4sc around. [22]
  • R5inc, 9 sc, inc, 10 sc. [24]
  • R6–12sc around. [24] Stuff lightly.
  • R13(2 sc, dec) x6. [18]
  • R14(sc, dec) x6. [12]
  • R15dec x6. Fasten off, sew closed. [6]
2

Front paws (make 2)

  • R1MR, 6 sc. [6]
  • R2inc x6. [12]
  • R3–5sc around. [12] Stuff, flatten, and sew to front.
3

Hind legs (make 2)

  • R1MR, 6 sc. [6]
  • R2inc x6. [12]
  • R3–6sc around. [12] Stuff. Sew to body.
4

Tail

Ch 25 (or desired length). Starting in 2nd ch from hook: sc in each ch across. Fasten off.

Step 4

Crochet the Clover Flower (make 1)

  • R1MR, 6 sc. [6]
  • R2inc x6. [12]
  • Petal*sl st, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sl st in next st.* Repeat from * to * 5 more times to make 6 petals.
  • FinishFasten off. Weave in ends.

This little six-petal flower (styled here as a four-leaf clover with the right color choice) sits in the cat's front paws as the centerpiece accent.

Step 5

Assembling the Sleeping Cat Doily

  1. Sew the head to the body.
  2. Sew the front paws underneath the head.
  3. Sew the hind legs and tail onto the body.
  4. Sew the flower in front of the cat, tucked under the paws.
  5. Place and sew the completed cat onto the doily base, then weave in all remaining ends.
Before you cast on

Tips for First-Time Amigurumi Crocheters

  • Use a stitch marker every round. Without a join, it's easy to lose the start point in continuous spiral rounds — a small clip removes all the guesswork.
  • Stuff a little at a time. Add fiberfill in small pinches as you go rather than all at once at the end; it distributes more evenly and avoids lumps.
  • Keep tension consistent. Tight, even stitches on the head and body keep stuffing from showing through the fabric.
  • Pin before you sew. Use stitch markers or scrap yarn to pin the head, paws, legs, and tail in place first, then step back and check the pose before committing to permanent stitches.
  • Block the doily. Lightly steam or pin the finished doily flat after the scalloped edge is complete — this helps the lace mesh open up evenly.
Quick answers

Frequently Asked Questions

What size hook should I use for this pattern?

A 2.5–3.0 mm crochet hook paired with DK or light worsted cotton yarn. Using a smaller hook than usual for the yarn weight is intentional in amigurumi — it creates a tighter fabric that hides stuffing.

Can I use acrylic yarn instead of cotton?

You can, but cotton is recommended because it holds its shape and gives the lace doily sections crisper, more defined stitches than most acrylics.

How long does this project take to finish?

For a confident beginner, expect roughly 4–6 hours total across the doily, head, body, ears, legs, tail, flower, embroidery, and assembly — comfortably split across a few evenings.

Is this pattern good for a first amigurumi project?

Yes. It's labeled easy to intermediate. Every round uses only basic stitches (sc, dc, hdc, inc, dec), and the repeated sphere/oval shaping in the head and body gives plenty of practice with the same core technique.

Can I change the colors?

Absolutely — the structure stays identical no matter the palette. Swap white/purple/pink/gray for any combination, like a cream, caramel, black, and green calico version.

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